By Tom Gable
Some wine drinkers dismiss Rosé as a sugary pop with few redeeming qualities and meant only for Spring and Summer quaffing. However, its increased popularity with foodies over the past few years has encouraged producers worldwide to offer a wider array of high-quality, dry, crisp, fruity rosé wines with distinct styles, often showing off the character of their regions, appellations, and custom blends of different varietals.
This allows innovative hosts and creative cooks to explore new combinations and match different styles to complement parts of any meal. We’ve enjoyed it with picnic fare on the patio or beach, with appetizers to contrast with a gazpacho soup course, to take the edge off fish tacos (instead of beer), and to complement some fish courses (e.g., salmon in a dill sauce; white sea bass beurre blanc).
To start your organoleptic adventures, begin exploring the many types and styles of rosés available in the U.S., which range from party wines and blends under $10 a bottle (and cheaper in-box wines) to more complex, crisp, aromatic, and tasty wines from France, Spain, Italy, Australia, and the U.S. at $40 and more.
France
For a quick global tour, France is the world’s largest and most renowned producer of rosé wines. Wines from its cooler areas often have alcohol levels in the 12.5-13.0% range. The warmer regions to the south generate riper grapes and range from 13.5% and up. Its key areas include:
Provence: The best-known region in the world for rosé production. Its winemakers enjoy more moderate climates than other areas in France. They produce wines from bargain-bin prices to the most expensive (still under $35). Their wines are typically dry and crisp and show off a balance from their traditional blends of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and sometimes Mourvèdre. Key appellations include: Côtes de Provence, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, Coteaux Varois en Provence, and Bandol. The top-selling rosé in the U.S. is Whispering Angel, from Château d’Esclans in Provence, a refreshing, red-fruit blend with good acidity that retails for about $22. Another popular wine from Provence is Miraval ($25), owned by Brad Pitt and the Stoli vodka conglomerate and run by the Perrin family of Chateauneuf de Pape (and Tablas Creek in Paso Robles).
Rhône Valley: The Southern Rhône, particularly Lirac and Tavel, produces fuller-bodied rosés with intense flavors, made from Grenache and Cinsault (Grenache adds character to the red wines of the region, including Chateauneuf-de-Pape).
Languedoc: Lower-priced rosé wines produced in quantities. It is the home of Hampton Water, created by the musical star Jon Bon Jovi and his son, which is a tasty blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Mourvèdre.
Champagne: Produces high-quality and higher-priced sparkling rosé wines ($30 to $295 for the Dom Pérignon Rosé Champagne).
United States
California
California produces millions of bottles of rosé wines a year, from the low-cost blended jug and box wines out of the Central Valley to stylish, complex, single-varietal wines from the best appellations costing $40 and more. The styles range from classic crisp wines from Northern California appellations to fruitier, higher-alcohol wines from Southern California, with its warm weather. Appellations to try include:
Sonoma County: A wise choice to start exploring rosé wines in the Golden State is the Sonoma Coast, which, with its cool nights, produces crisp, fruity, food-friendly rosés with good acidity levels, often made from Pinot Noir. Other appellations with usually tasty, stylish wines include Russian River Valley, Petaluma Gap, Alexander Valley, and Carneros. Names to try include Martinelli, Banshee Wines, Gundlach Bundschu, and Sonoma-Cutrer.
Napa Valley: Napa is a good source for rosés from Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Merlot. Grapes are often sourced from multiple vineyards in the larger appellation (Napa Valley) and blended. Some estate wines can be found from Rutherford, Oakville, Calistoga, Carneros, and Lake County. Alcohols are 13.5-14.5%. Good choices: Alpha Omega Winery, Chandon, Domaine Carneros, Louis M. Martini Winery, Peju Winery, Raymond Vineyards, Round Pond Estate, and V. Sattui Winery.
Paso Robles: The region has a warmer climate than other areas in Southern California. This creates higher sugar levels in its grapes and higher alcohol content. The region’s bigger style red wines are made from Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Rhône blends (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre). Its rosés follow in style, with deeper fruit and higher alcohol levels (14.5 to 16.0%). The wines are a good match for picnic and BBQ fare. Favorites in any vintage include Tablas Creek Vineyard Patelin de Tablas Rosé, a rosé blend in the tradition of Provence ($28), DAOU Discovery Rosé, Cass Oasis Rosé, Justin, and Vina Robles Rosé.
Santa Barbara County: The region benefits from its topography – mountain ranges and valleys where cooler evenings contribute to more nuanced wines, including rosés made from Pinot Noir and Rhone varieties. Noted appellations include Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Maria Valley, Ballard Canyon, and Santa Ynez Valley. With the cooler climate, alcohol levels typically range from 12.5% to 14.0%. Consistent producers include Beckmen, Stolpman, Dragonette, Foxen, Brander, and Brewer-Clifton.
Central Coast: This AVA encompasses a vast area with diverse climates and a wide range of wine styles. Notable subregions include Monterey, the Santa Cruz Mountains, and San Luis Obispo, each with distinctive styles. Wines from the coastal areas have lower alcohol levels (12.5-14.0%). The warmer inland areas generate fruitier wines with higher alcohol (14.0-16.0%). Wines with the Central Coast appellation are usually made from blends of wines from different vineyards in the region to achieve a winemaker’s style.
Oregon
The best producers in Oregon are scattered on the hillsides of the Willamette Valley and the flatter expanses in the Southern Oregon appellation. With its cool climate, the Willamette Valley is known for its Pinot Noir-based rosés. The styles vary based on the appellations but generally have good acid structures and distinct red fruit characteristics (strawberry, red cherries, pomegranate). Look for wines from Domaine Drouhin, Stoller, K&M Wines, Chehalem Winery, Rain Dance Vineyards, and Fullerton Wines. Southern Oregon has a warmer climate, and its blends include Rhone varietals with more prominent, fruitier styles.
Washington
Its key areas include The Columbia Valley, Washington’s largest wine region, and several sub-AVAs: Yakima Valley, Walla Walla Valley, and Horse Heaven Hills.
The region’s warm climate and long growing season produce rosés with bigger fruit flavors and good acidity. Interesting producers: Long Shadows (Julia’s Dazzle), Barnard Griffin, Patterson Cellars, Lauren Ashton Cellars, Charles & Charles Rosé, Devison Vintners, Gramercy Cellars, and Chateau St. Michelle (often around $10).
Italy
Italy produces a wide range of Rosato wines from a dozen regions, from thin, low-alcohol quaffing wines for hot weather to more refined, food-friendly wines made from the best varietals (Montepulciano, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Syrah, and Pinot Nero). Costs can be under $10 to $40 and more. Areas include Piedmont, Tuscany, Lombardy, Umbria, Piedmont, and Sicily. Brands with good distribution include Le Vigne di San Pietro, Tormaresca, Pietradolce, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, and Salento Rosato.
Spain
Spain is third behind Italy and France in annual wine production. Its rosé (rosado) is produced throughout the country’s wine regions. The diversity of climates and grape varieties across Spain gives wine drinkers a wide range of choices in rosé styles, from light and crisp to more full-bodied and complex. The key areas are Rioja, Navarra, and Penedès.
Spain’s top producers of rosé wines: Bodegas Chivite, Cune (CVNE), Muga, and Marqués de Murrieta.
Australia
Australia is about three-quarters the size of the U.S., and it has important wine regions spread from coast to coast across the southern third of the country. The key areas are Western Australia (including Margaret River), South Australia (including Adelaide Hills, Barossa Valley, Clare Valley, and McLaren Vale), and Victoria (Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula).
The official Australian Wine website notes the country has over 200 years of viticulture and winemaking. Winemakers in the different regions create wines from dozens of varietals, including non-traditional, in a wide range of styles, reflecting the country’s diverse climate and terroir. The cooler temperatures of Adelaide Hills and Yarra Valley produce drier styles. Barossa and McLaren Vale, with warmer climates, offer fuller-bodied rosés. Some of Australia’s top producers of rosé wines are Dominique Portet, Swinney Vineyards, Jones Winery, Zonzo Estate, Innocent Bystander, and Voyager Estate.
Other Countries
We’ve enjoyed rosé wines from New Zealand (fine Pinot Noir-based rosés), South Africa (rich, fruit-forward wines from its Pinotage grape), Chile (different blends), and Argentina (Rhone blends, some Bordeaux varietals). But the wines are hard to find in the U.S., and we haven’t tasted many lately to provide any insights.
If you are ever in a quandary about whether to serve a white or red wine with a dish, consider rosé. Taste your way through different regions to find styles you like. Consider interesting new combinations that might delight your senses or at least leave you with a new treat for warm weather quaffing. Cheers!
Three Recent Finds
Paso Robles 2023 Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas Rosé ($28). Grenache, Mourvedre, Counoise, and Vermentino blend. Light-mid copper, low viscosity (13.0 alc.); floral, peachy, strawberry nose; low-mid acids; mid-body; good depth; semi-long red fruit finish. 16-16.5/90-91.
Easy sipping $29 Willamette, Oregon, 2023 Lange Rosé of Pinot Noir. Mid-salmon, some viscosity (12.1 alc.); strawberry, red fruit, clove, floral nose; mid acids; mid-body; semi-long, fruit, crisp finish. 16/90.
Value $23 Rose 2022 Mathilde Chapoutier Côtes de Provence Grand Ferrage. Mid-copper/orange, some viscosity (13% alc.); peachy, tropical, citrus, rose petal nose; low-mid acids; mid fruit; good semi-long, tasty, red fruit finish. 16/90.
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